Baby It's Cold Outside

So here in San Francisco it's been fucking freezing. But it is summer people! I know it would be easy to carry on wearing your winter garb, but I'm not down with it. I don't want to go through the summer looking at you in your drab flannels and hoodies. I hale from New England where we change everything every season, even our personalities if we have to. It's not enough to just forego a coat. Guy at the dog park shivering in his green hooodie does not give me that summertime feeling. I don't want to see people shivering in summer. So, I've compiled this list of cold summer tips.

Start with a summer coat. I'm not talking about doubling up on hoodies people.


I love how this coat is part trench part pea. It's by Aquascutum ltd. and will remain wearable throughout fall. There's tons of people making lighter weight summery pea coats these days. I've even seen denim and chambray ones around. All that's a good idea.


This parka from Velour is amazing. The hood can be rolled and zipped into the collar and it's shorter than most more cumbersome parkas.


Yes please. Classic. G9 slimfit Harrington jacket by Baracuta.

For tops I'm always a fan of nautical. It's so easy and I like it for cold SF summers because at least it brings to mind the sea. Nautical or not crew neck sweaters and sweatshirts are a good idea. Wear cotton knit instead of wool sweaters for summertime warmth.




Good sweater options from Velour and American Apparel.

Try a popover shirt. This one is by Gant Rugger but there's lots out there.

Get some slim fit colored chinos.



These ones from Shades Of Greige are my favorite. I have them myself in navy. Good ol' seersucker pants always work dressed up or down too. Or, try fade wash jeans rolled up at the bottom for a beachy look.

Wear a lighter more narrow belt.




Like this hoof-pick belt from Wiley Brothers that I have been coveting since what feels like the beginning of time. Or, the equally covet-able young belt from Folk.

Get some shoes that reflect the season.



Boat shoes just aren't going away and I'm fine with that but if you're going to spend good money on shoes I think they should be wearable throughout the year and never go out of style. Try these navy suede blucher mocs by Quoddy as a boat shoe alternative.

Or,



Alden red brick bucks.

Or, if you really want to save money do what I did, take your beat up old lace up vans and switch out the laces with suede or leather cord. Instant summer classic. You can get leather cord at your local craft or bead store super cheap. I personally tugged the leather laces out of some old defunct boat shoes.

Another cheap way to summerize your wardrobe is simply change your socks.





I like solid socks like these from American Apparel. The calf high seed stitched trouser sock is lighter weight comes in a zillion colors and can be worn with suit pants to jeans. The solid calf high sock is more the weight of a gym sock and I wear them year round.

And last but not least, carry a bag that can go from the beach to the windy city streets.



This one from Farm Tactics fits the bill.

In conclusion, I just want us all to be happy and by dressing season appropriate I believe we can achieve this. Don't let summer fade into fall into winter into whatever, mark your time with your socks.

Strangeways Styleguide: A How-To for the Invisible Man

Style Icon: JT--He gets it right with just a little (well aimed) flash

So anyone who knows me knows that I seem to always find myself flapping in the wind of unsettled space. My gender identity is so complicated for others that there doesn't seem to be a word for me (I'm transgender-identified in a pretty broad sense, if it matters--and I don't think my gender is complicated at all).

Point is: my body presents unique challenges when clothing shopping (I've had top surgery but not taken testosterone, so my shoulders are narrow, my chest is flat, I'm thin and I'm 5'5--so I can basically not buy anything off the rack at 99% of boutiques, department stores and monster chains).

I appreciate, then, that "men's" (high) fashion occupies the often bizarre crossover territory of the hypermasculine (performance!) and the androgynous (art!). If I was a flashy dresser with a strong jawline and a trustfund, I think my closet would be full of Alexander McQueen + Prada + etc. + so on. I'd be like: ruffled shirts and manly short shorts! Whatevs.

However, to further my style troubles, I tend toward the classic--maybe it's my Libra moon--but I like feeling rebellious while maintaining a gentleman's sense of containment and an eye for details. Like this guy:

I realize I might not be the only masculine body out there challenged by a desire for stylish staples compounded by strange proportions/gender obstacles/etc. So I've put together this short yet handy guide of places to shop if you and I fit the same style bill.

First off, by necessity I've adopted a very European model of buying clothing--I shell out a lot for a few well-made items that last a long time. I have a tailor (more on Al next time) who has handcrafted me a suit, a shirt and two vests. It may sound decadent, but the sweet thing about having a tailor is that you pick out every detail and every piece is made for your body. Bonus: alterations for life!

My grey suit is solid and can be mixed and matched with both vests and the shirt. As Al often reminds me, I'm slowly building up a collection of gentlemen's garments that will look as excellent at a formal wedding as a beach bluff picnic.

I augment the expense of my tailor with regular trips to American Apparel who--for all their tacky advertising--is the only place stateside I can find a plain white t-shirt that fits me (xs! xxs!) There summer line is almost always awesome--rife with seersucker and fancy pants. And it's affordable!

My favorite new shirt for cocktail parties or beer on the deck:

White/brown seersucker

If I've got a little extra cash and time, I'll visit Topman's online store. Their XS or XXS both tend to fit this small guy well and I've found multiple sweaters, t-shirts and jackets that have been off the chain. My favorite drool-worthy items on their site are the blazers and jackets, which sort of toe the line between rock and roll and elegant modernist dinner party.

I've heard great things about Uniqlo, though I haven't yet had the opportunity to try something on. Generally, if I could buy only Japanese clothes I would be pumped: they've got the slim fit/small guy/well dressed situation down in a major way.

Finally, for accessories the world opens up a little. A great spot that I've found for all your dandy materials is Fine and Dandy, an awesome online store overflowing with pocket squares and tie jewelry. They also have a great blog with very dapper fashion insights (though occasionally I find them a bit costume-y, I appreciate their eye for "men on the street" like this guy):

Between my tailor and the few stores I know make clothes in my size, I have managed to put together a closet I'm proud of. Someday: a store where pants always fit. I'll keep you posted.