A Collector's Approach to Fashion Magazines

Photo by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin

First, a confession: I have never liked fashion magazines. You can name nearly every fashion magazine from Vogue, to Bazaar, to Lucky. I don't care for them. Fashion magazine enthusiasts have been dreading the much-discussed death knell of the magazine publishing industry for years, but I've always been unable to understand enthusiasm for what seems like an antiquated, thoroughly beaten out dinosaur of an approach to style. My stance is only mildly one of ideological difference. The repeated articles about how to master the art of seductive dressing, the best make up looks, and any number of tips on "looking great" or getting that "beach bod" do tend to ruffle my cultural feathers a bit, but more than that, they're so BOOOOORING and redundant.

Here, an impression of the last Vogue I purchased several months ago during a particularly long layover at JFK: 20 pages of thematically disconnected product ads, anemic article about a Hollywood celebrity I don't care about, 30 pages of thematically disconnected product ads, a dull spread, something I'm supposed to do with my make up, more ads, something else forgettable, ads, end.

I was done ten minutes into my layover and so I purchased 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. It was fine. I didn't get why Captain Nemo has been so vilified.


At any rate, the problem, as everyone knows, with the old guard of fashion magazines is that they don't give you anything more than you could get on the internet. So, what if publishers treated fashion magazines as sources of unique experiences to be had, rather than as sources of information? I don't pay for information anymore. I pay for experiences. I'm no Dionysian devotee, no Maryann from True Blood or anything, but I shop in a store so that I can have the experience of fabric in my hands and maybe I can stop between shops for a pastry, I grind coffee instead of purchasing instant because I like the experience of smelling freshly ground beans-- I like the small rituals of life. I like collecting objects--art, odd items with strange personalities, books with leather-bound spines--because the act of collecting is one of life's most engaging experiences. That's why my two (and possibly ONLY) favorite fashion magazines treat their content like art, like something to be cherished, rather than as overly-cooked information to be consumed. 

Favored magazine number one: 

The Gentlewoman

The Gentlewoman, only in its second issue (pretty ballsy move, starting a new fashion magazine at the end of the publishing era), is a work of perfection. This is a magazine version of an exquisitely-curated exhibition-- every detail considered, every page a stand alone work of beauty and class. This is a magazine for grown-ups (not in a creepy way), requiring thought, observation, and time. This is a collector's magazine.

It helps that it comes out in biannual installments (every issue flies out the door, so if you're in the Bay Area act quickly-- you can get one from my favorite magazine store in Oakland--Issues), but more than that, the content of each issue can't be found ANYWHERE else. Even The Gentlewoman's own website is a fairly spare landing page with a brief mission statement and a slim description of the current issue's content.

Everything about this publication sets it apart from its older fashion magazine genre members. First, the design is clean and intriguing. You won't find messy covers screaming the contents at you in a desperate seeming way. The Autumn/Winter 2010 cover is characteristically minimalist and features a bearded Inez van Lamsweerde, dubbed "the world's best fashion photographer." Which she is. The cover even takes into consideration the major difference between the virtual and the physical: the tactile. Rather than the slick, glossy paper you're accustomed to with magazines, The Gentlewoman's cover is semi-matte and textured, setting it apart from first touch. Inside, you'll find all the ads are confined to the first ten pages or so and are stylistically in keeping with the overall look of the magazine, even down to the photographic "mood." From there, The Gentlewoman is divided into 3 distinct  sections (a bit like exhibition galleries), which they call "parts:"

                                            

      

How many of those people in "Modernisms" or "Features" do you recognize by name? Only a few, right? That's the other brilliant thing about The Gentlewoman-- they feature people who are actually doing real work in the world, which means you've probably never heard of most of them. The features range from news anchor, Lukwesa Burak, to a British comedian, to a psychotherapist who specializes in helping artists achieve financial wellness, to apples (yes, the fruit) and explore fashion and culture from every possible angle.

Lukwesa Burak (of Sky News studio in London) discusses the politics of fashion for female news anchors

"Hands making matters extremely clear in leather"
Gesticulations is a combination of hand communication and product features

Who gives a shit about Anne Hathaway, how to drive him crazy in the sack, and this Winter's must have eyes??? I would so much rather read an interview with the thoroughly bizarre and incomparably ingenious Inez! She worked with Alexander McQueen and wears the strangest array of facial expressions you've ever seen. What has Katy Perry done lately that's not inane? Nothing.

Favored magazine number two:

Visionaire

Visionaire is arguably not a magazine. At least not in the traditional sense of the word. In fact, Visionaire "is a multi-format album of fashion and art produced in exclusive numbered limited editions." Which is to say, I've never purchased one because I can't afford one (if you think you can afford one, then you can find each issue after its release at SFMoMA's bookstore and other locations around the U.S.). BUT I love the fact that they exist (since 1991) and they make all of their content available on their site, which is a small comfort and a large time suck.

Like The Gentlewoman, Visionaire operates within themes. Each issue invites its submitters to explore vague topics such as "Magic," "Solar," "Sound," or--most recently--"Spirit." "Spirit" is dedicated to the memory of Alexander McQueen. The genius of Visionaire is that their submissions come from fashion designers, fashion photographers, world-renowned artists, filmmakers, and musicians. It's an experience extraordinaire! 

Issue 48: Magic, features a gold Alhambra charm by Van Cleef & Arpels
 and 25 lenticular cards

Issue 48 (above) included contributions by Sofia Coppola, Gus Van Sant, Karl Lagerfeld, Mario Sorrenti, and Mariko Mori, just to name a few. 

Every edition is a multi-media experience, including the tribute to McQueen. Check out the trailer for Issue 58: Spirit (which was released in June):

I won't spend $6 on an InStyle or whatever the fuck, but that trailer 100% made me want to drop $300 on a limited edition Spirit. That and the stunning work inside. 

Lady Gaga's contribution

Nick Knight's contribution

Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin's contribution

I know nothing about the ins and outs of magazine publishing, know nothing of its future, and am wholly uninterested in the implications of that future. But I do know that in a time of publishing unrest, The Gentlewoman and Visionaire have not only managed to engage someone who is anti-magazine (me), but they have also managed to re-imagine what it means to be a magazine and what the magazine form itself can accomplish. In doing so, they have turned themselves into commodities. Something to be collected, displayed, talked about. They have made themselves the embodiment of couture in magazine form. Well played.

My Tailor, Myself

A scene from Savile Row Field Day, a celebration of wool by bespoke tailors on London's famed Savile Row

My love affair with custom clothing began a few years ago, when everyone banded together and got me the birthday gift to end all birthday gifts: a trip to buy a handmade suit at Al's Attire--a whimsically old-world tailor shop with a modern edge, situated on a cobbled, windy North Beach street.

Because I am a small guy with narrow shoulders and high sartorial ambitions, the likelihood of me finding a suit that fits off the rack at H&M, Macy's, et. al. is nonexistent. Regardless of body type/gender obstacles, buying a handmade suit is magical: part therapy, part luxury, part art. A great tailor is like an awesome acupuncturist--not entirely necessary when uninitiated but unmistakably vital once discovered.

My favorite part? In the tradition of bespoke tailoring, Al brings out swaths of fabric like a fairy godmother and asks you to choose the stripe and color of the lining or to pick between subtle shades of gray pinstripe. He has dozens of button shapes and vintage pattern books to spread before you. What color thread? What sort of button hole? Collar? Also, once you've done the fittings and the collaboration is complete, Al's puts a little label with your name on it on the inside of your garment. Swoon.

The suit I ended up with is a versatile charcoal grey with a smart vest (complete with a ticket pocket)--the basic building block of a gentleman's closet, with a little winking twist here and there. The suit is perfect for weddings, work events, fancy dinners and funerals. As evidenced by Mad Men, you cannot go wrong with a grey suit.

After a few years in my grey suit, I wanted something different for my wedding. I didn't have the budget for a whole new navy blue suit (my first choice) so Al and I designed a vest and shirt to go with the grey suit pants. I wanted to work with a brown/blue color palette (with a hint of purple to match Michael's dress--this ended up being reflected in my vest's buttonholes). Here's what we came up with:

Photo by Kareem Worrell

The fabric I picked for the shirt is heavy--almost workman-style-- and brown/tan striped. Al washed it many times to give it a softer feel. The collar and cuff buttons are architectural--double-fastened and looped. The collar foregos a point for a rounder edge and the front of the vest is chocolate brown. You can see the that detailing better here:

Photo by Kareem Worrell

The best part is that my grey suit now has two totally different looks, which is the man on a budget's version of an entirely new outfit.

Al's sense of modernity is especially evident in his playful, hidden details. Check out this custom suit jacket he made for another client with a flash of yellow blooming under the collar:

If that weren't enough, Al is also a shoemaker. Like everything else, he can customize them for your feet alone.

The concept of addressing the nuance of physical difference through making attire from scratch has been a revelation. Clothes should fit you! Fan-fucking-tastic idea.

 And I know Americans are not the first to think of it. The handmade suit is a longstanding British tradition. (Rich) Brits throughout the ages have gone to family-run tailoring businesses on Savile Row and had suits built to last decades.

I often think I have very little desire to visit London and then I find myself salivating over two hundred years of wisdom made material, like with this beauty by Savile Row's Stuart Lamprell (featured in The New York Times). Bespoke suit? Oh, it will be done. 

Even Lamprell's work in progress is gorgeous:

My migration toward elegant, fitted clothes has been philosophical as well as aesthetic. I love the idea of paring my closet down to a few pieces of immaculately crafted and curated garments rather than the American Apparel bonanza it currently is (not to knock them, they do the cotton V-neck perfectly, but every day is not a weekend and sharp is sharp).

The neighborhood laundromat can assist with basic alterations: bringing in a shirt or a pair of pants, for example. But every city has a tailor who is a genius: someone who can transform my store bought clothes into a song of myself. And then there are the few who can shape coats and vests and shirts from scratch.

All of this has got me thinking: it's greener, cleaner and more beautiful to purchase a little with a lot than a lot with a little. In a world of mass-produced, disposable, ill-fitting clothing, I'm moving in a different direction. As much as possible, I want to stand behind the integrity of my every buttonhole, to have a thoughtful relationship with what I wear.

Suitable, Essential, Affordable

So, here in SF most people don't need a suit for work. But, don't think that excludes you from needing one altogether. You're going to go to weddings, you are going to go to funerals, this is just inevitable. And there will be other occasions too. The biggest mistake people make is waiting until they have such occasion then rushing around and buying something suitable yet not perfect. Get ahead of the game. Shop for a suit when you least need one. This will ensure you get something that fits right. There is nothing worse then an ill fitted suit. Suits are expensive and there is no way around that. But one nice suit in a proper color should last a lifetime. If you are not full of money to buy endless suits stick to a basic color and fabric that can be worn for any season. It doesn't need to be boring, but, it should go well with your coloring and have flexibility to be changed drastically by using different shirt and tie situations. Black, blue or grey works year round and can be worn for any formal occasion. In this day and age it is not necessary to wear only a black suit to a funeral. Lives are meant to be celebrated. And while black suits may be appropriate for weddings something cheerier like a blue or beige is nice. Most importantly though, is versatility and fit.

I am not a huge H&M fan. They do have some ok clothes, my not fan status comes more from the fact that none of it fits me right, and some of it is made like shit. This said, the most affordable not ugly suit you can find will be at H&M. And since I'm always out for the little guy, you'll be happy to know that these will also come readily available in the smaller sizes. Here's Will Arnett from Arrested Development(funniest show ever) wearing an H&M suit.



The second most affordable suits you can find are vintage. Vintage suits are great. You only need to watch Mad Men to know this is true. Though the suits on there are not vintage but tailor made for those guys. Anyway, the only problem with vintage suits is that they are VERY high wasted, so if you don't like that, don't buy them. They are not ALL great so be very careful where you get them and NO polyester thank you. Don't expect them to be dirt cheap because a well made vintage suit that has been well cared for throughout the years will probably set you back more then a new suit at H&M. You can also run into tailoring problems with vintage suits as they have more often then not already been tailor fitted to some other bloke. Like Cary Grant perchance.


If you live here in the Bay area the best place I've found for vintage guys suits is La Rosa on Haight Street. If you're like me then you usually want to be left alone when shopping. But, when suit shopping it is very useful to have some knowledgeable help as it can be overwhelming and is a pricey purchase. The staff at La Rosa can tell you if something fits right and if where it doesn't can be tailored to fit right. Take advantage of their know-how.


Another place in SF you can try is Idol Vintage. They have a smaller selection and will offer less help. Be extra careful of a polyester blend here.


(Strangely similar store fronts, no?)

Side note: Vintage suits are harder to separate. You know, wear the pants with a sweater or jacket or the blazer with jeans. Keep these things in mind while shopping if they are important to you. Which they should be.

Moving on up the line of cost comes Banana Republic. These will have a more formal vibe and are pretty well made. And Banana also looks out for the little guy carrying the smaller sizes.



Next up is J.Crew. They offer nice fabrics, slim fits and if you go to a bigger store may have some helpful staff.



Finally, Ben Sherman suits. These are great because they have the vintage vibe without the too high waists. And the Mad Men vibe without the stuffy boardroom or midlife crisis.



These are the most affordable places to get suits. If you've got more money to blow then hit Saks, or Barney's or Bloomie's for christ's sake. Find a salesperson you feel comfortable with and get to it. Just don't get too brand obsessed. Dying for a Band of Outsider's suit? Fine, but don't purchase online, you must try it on and it must fit properly not just be Band of Outsiders.

Hey little guy, two or one button blazers, you want as big a V as possible to make you appear taller.

Hey everyone, unless you are of perfect proportions(which you aren't, trust me), do not pass GO after purchasing your suit. What I'm saying is do not take it home. Proceed directly to a tailor and have proper alterations done. Wherever you make your purchase should be able to give you a recommendation of one nearby their store.

Another side note: Topman was not included in this post because I have never been there nor seen in person a suit from there. If you live in NYC check it out.

And readers please feel free to ask me any questions. You can leave them as comments or email me directly at: leoplass@gmail.com

Looks I Love: Spring 2011

There are three things happening in fashion right now that make me really happy.  1)Pattern Mixing 2)Large Scale Applique Style Prints 3)SEVENTIES GLAM.  Below are my favorites for Spring 2011. 

Pattern Mixing

Etro

Etro

Erdem

Erdem

Erdem

Chris Kane

Beyonce workin the look

 Pattern Mixing done right = richness.  I love this trend because it reminds me of the way I imagined magical worlds as a child.  Layers and layers of discovery, interest and complexity everywhere you look.  Obviously it has to be done right... Etro and Erdem are geniuses at working this idea in a classic, romantic way, while Chris Kane's approach reminds me of late-90s graffitti -- evolved away from the roundness and shattered.  And Beyonce gets this sooooo right! Plus, I thought we could use some THIGHS in this post, since there are none to be found on the runway. You feel me?

Large Scale Applique-Style Prints

Erdem

Erdem

Louis Vuitton

Erdem

So, I'm not an expert on textile history, but I do a little bit about Edwardian fashion, and back in the day, the kinds of patterns you see above would have been either embroidered or cut and appliqued on.  I don't know if that was due to trend or technology, but that's why when I see these designs I think of appliques.  This is a signature look for Erdem, but others, like Louis Vuitton, are experimenting with it this season as well.

SEVENTIES GLAM

Pucci

Etro

Etro

Gucci

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton

As mentioned in previous posts, The Seventies, a decade which I just *barley* managed to be born in have long been an obsession of mine.  I have never met a wooden platform, a low-cut flare jean or a high-waist wide-leg trouser I didn't like.  Looking around lately it seems that in the real world stores are still with the pleated pants/strong shoulder 80s stuff, but with any luck, we'll see The Seventies in a Forever 21 near you come spring.

BONUS: The lead designs in the Gucci show BLEW MY MIND.  These outfits are a master class in how to make a garment that is tailored and draped at the same time -- a feat only a master could manage, incidentally.  Also, they're sexy and glamorous without being slutty and ostentatious.  Also, the color palette makes me think of a Mediterranean beach town at 4:00 on a summer afternoon.

Love,
Carrie