Suitable, Essential, Affordable

So, here in SF most people don't need a suit for work. But, don't think that excludes you from needing one altogether. You're going to go to weddings, you are going to go to funerals, this is just inevitable. And there will be other occasions too. The biggest mistake people make is waiting until they have such occasion then rushing around and buying something suitable yet not perfect. Get ahead of the game. Shop for a suit when you least need one. This will ensure you get something that fits right. There is nothing worse then an ill fitted suit. Suits are expensive and there is no way around that. But one nice suit in a proper color should last a lifetime. If you are not full of money to buy endless suits stick to a basic color and fabric that can be worn for any season. It doesn't need to be boring, but, it should go well with your coloring and have flexibility to be changed drastically by using different shirt and tie situations. Black, blue or grey works year round and can be worn for any formal occasion. In this day and age it is not necessary to wear only a black suit to a funeral. Lives are meant to be celebrated. And while black suits may be appropriate for weddings something cheerier like a blue or beige is nice. Most importantly though, is versatility and fit.

I am not a huge H&M fan. They do have some ok clothes, my not fan status comes more from the fact that none of it fits me right, and some of it is made like shit. This said, the most affordable not ugly suit you can find will be at H&M. And since I'm always out for the little guy, you'll be happy to know that these will also come readily available in the smaller sizes. Here's Will Arnett from Arrested Development(funniest show ever) wearing an H&M suit.



The second most affordable suits you can find are vintage. Vintage suits are great. You only need to watch Mad Men to know this is true. Though the suits on there are not vintage but tailor made for those guys. Anyway, the only problem with vintage suits is that they are VERY high wasted, so if you don't like that, don't buy them. They are not ALL great so be very careful where you get them and NO polyester thank you. Don't expect them to be dirt cheap because a well made vintage suit that has been well cared for throughout the years will probably set you back more then a new suit at H&M. You can also run into tailoring problems with vintage suits as they have more often then not already been tailor fitted to some other bloke. Like Cary Grant perchance.


If you live here in the Bay area the best place I've found for vintage guys suits is La Rosa on Haight Street. If you're like me then you usually want to be left alone when shopping. But, when suit shopping it is very useful to have some knowledgeable help as it can be overwhelming and is a pricey purchase. The staff at La Rosa can tell you if something fits right and if where it doesn't can be tailored to fit right. Take advantage of their know-how.


Another place in SF you can try is Idol Vintage. They have a smaller selection and will offer less help. Be extra careful of a polyester blend here.


(Strangely similar store fronts, no?)

Side note: Vintage suits are harder to separate. You know, wear the pants with a sweater or jacket or the blazer with jeans. Keep these things in mind while shopping if they are important to you. Which they should be.

Moving on up the line of cost comes Banana Republic. These will have a more formal vibe and are pretty well made. And Banana also looks out for the little guy carrying the smaller sizes.



Next up is J.Crew. They offer nice fabrics, slim fits and if you go to a bigger store may have some helpful staff.



Finally, Ben Sherman suits. These are great because they have the vintage vibe without the too high waists. And the Mad Men vibe without the stuffy boardroom or midlife crisis.



These are the most affordable places to get suits. If you've got more money to blow then hit Saks, or Barney's or Bloomie's for christ's sake. Find a salesperson you feel comfortable with and get to it. Just don't get too brand obsessed. Dying for a Band of Outsider's suit? Fine, but don't purchase online, you must try it on and it must fit properly not just be Band of Outsiders.

Hey little guy, two or one button blazers, you want as big a V as possible to make you appear taller.

Hey everyone, unless you are of perfect proportions(which you aren't, trust me), do not pass GO after purchasing your suit. What I'm saying is do not take it home. Proceed directly to a tailor and have proper alterations done. Wherever you make your purchase should be able to give you a recommendation of one nearby their store.

Another side note: Topman was not included in this post because I have never been there nor seen in person a suit from there. If you live in NYC check it out.

And readers please feel free to ask me any questions. You can leave them as comments or email me directly at: leoplass@gmail.com

Office Space

Duluth Pack wool utility pack for Barneys New York

Part of what's awesome (for me) about starting a new job is the opportunity to justify many clothing purchases. I'm super pumped to be in a situation that informally requires me to wear full-fledged office clothes! If you want to punch me in the face right now, let me explain: as a teaching artist/nonprofit lackey I have largely been allowed to wear what I want to work for all of my working life. While this is clearly a benefit, I also feel it encourages in me a certain laziness of dress. I am excited to really look like a well dressed, well groomed grown up all of the time. But I'm also glad I work for a place that's not too rigorous in enforcement, which means my style personality has plenty of room to shine. Any week day it's the businessmen and I in downtown Oakland and so far I feel super fly.

Check out the bag above my Duluth. It's pretty much the most awesome office accoutrement ever. And if you don't have $400 bucks to blow at Barney's, then buy this one by Duluth instead, which is also fantastic:

Speaking of affordable beauty, Topman is magical. Their clothes are beautiful, well made and they fit small--so guys like myself are actually able to find a pair of pants that don't look stupid. Their look is distinctive in the way it maintains the balance between fashion forward and rooted in a classic aesthetic. Here's a bunch of business-casual office-ready pieces I love by these geniuses:

It's summer in San Francisco! Finally. I'm about to wear these:

This military blazer is out of control:

Imagine it with a ribbon tie! Fantastic. I'm also partial to this jersey blazer:

Shoes! I'm about to buy some desert boots from Clarks a la:

I'd also be amped to own most anything Common Projects comes up with, including these babies: 

Switch out those laces for something a little more polished and wear them with some navy pants and you're golden. 

Point is, dressing up for work isn't something I dread. I'm happy to do my part to make the streets a little better dressed. Look like a million bucks, act like a million bucks. 

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly?

There's good news and there's bad news. Or is it just good? Or just bad? Ever since the winter collections started coming out I've noticed a trend. Menswear is hugely including leggings this winter. Leggings alone sometimes, but, lots of times with shorts over them. Here's some proof.


This look by B Store is leggings with a sweater. I don't think so people. Even this guy isn't pulling this off.


Engineered Garments is using these knit leggings for the look. More interesting for sure. Also a little leg warmer-y though.


Isaora, who are a little behind the times as this is actually from their Spring/Summer 2011 collection. Or does it mean this will last a while. Who knows.

So, what do you guys think? For the record, I wont be wearing this look unless I get stuck on a cold mountain top wearing shorts with long johns in my backpack. It's not because I'm opposed though. I'm actually quite confused as to how I feel. Is this like woman wearing skirts over pants? I would hate it if it were a way for skinny jeans to get skinnier like Jeggings for men or something. But it's not, as, baggier jeans are more prevalent this Fall/Winter, even in the same collections these looks are from. I will not myself be wearing this because good or bad it's sloppy as hell. It does remind me of when I would wear cut off camo pants with long johns in the early-mid 90's though. Which brings me to another issue. Dressed up camo is also hitting the scene.


Proof by Sophnet.

I don't care what you think, I am excited that subtle pleats are also hitting the scene. As well as tucked in sweaters which I got obsessed with after watching the movie, Let The Right One In, which took place in Stockholm Sweden where, if the movie is true to life in this aspect, the working class are tucking their sweaters in all the time.


I love these by Farah Vintage.


These are from the Topman Ltd Equestrian collection. Junya Watanabe makes some pretty cool ones too, as evidenced by previous Page McBee posts.

This post looks like it's turning from things I'm not sure about to things I like. So, here's some looks from the Stephan Schneider Furever collection. Nothing seems to be made of fur though.




Give me this jacket now please.

Since we've covered things I don't know if I like and things I do like here's something that has been annoying me. Dickies has come out with more collaborations in the last 3 months then Carter has liver pills. It all looks like Dickies. I don't get it. It's fine just buy Dickies if you want them. Unless you want the label to say Stussy instead I guess. I'm not going to bother to show you any pictures of this crap because it's too ridiculous.

Oh and apparently I've taken on a new love for jackets with an extra function. Remember those Moncler jackets I posted about that you could wear on your back? Well here's a new jacket that you attach your matching bag to.


From Mighty-Mac.

HATS HATS HATS

I am going to South Carolina in a few weeks to do research for a book I'm writing and I have been seriously hat shopping. I will obviously not wear that awesome raccoon trapper hat from Band of Outsiders because I will be sweating balls, but I present it to you to illustrate this fact: men's fashion is 75% accessories. Hats, scarves, watches, ties, belts, shoes, sun/glasses, necklaces. Bam. Put on a white t-shirt and sweet pair of jeans with approximately three excellent accessories and a tailored jacket (weather permitting) and you are SOLID.

So, back to hats. Topman offers this military-inspired look that works well with this model's sailor-ish style:

Since everyone's got their fall lines out because it's about to get cold everywhere that's not Northern California, my search has been made somewhat impractical. I don't care though because I'm impractical. Moving on. The Japanese once again prove that they rule at men's fashion and everyone else should just give up. Check out these perfect wool hats from Untold:

Is that, like, a million U.S. dollars? Who cares? Just kidding, I do. I am a struggling writer who works at a nonprofit. It's too bad, though, because those are sweet hats that would probably fit my little head perfectly since things in Japan aren't made for giants.

I got off track. The point is I need a hat so that I can pass as a guy more easily in backwoods gas stations and the like. This hat by San Francisco-based label HUF  knows exactly what I need. It's relaxed but adult enough that I won't look like I'm a sad sack about to turn thirty that still dresses like a teenager. I like baseball hats that aren't about baseball and the colors keeps it sober enough to wear with  a collared shirt. I actually kind of regret that I just now discovered these because they are really sweet:

Photograph from highsnobiety.com

Truth is, this has been an exercise only for my imagination. I already settled on this plain grey fitted 59Fifty Original Basic from New Era:

                            

It's nothing fancy: simple, innocuous, subtle. You can pick the color (even two-tone) and the price is right. As much as I'd like to wear this SEERSUCKER HAT by Huf...

...I believe, philosophically, that you've to to dress for the occasion. As beautiful as this seersucker baby is, it would likely not serve my purposes. To better pass in diners and libraries in a small town in South Carolina: the New Era steel grey hat feels just right.

Designer Sweatpants? Think About It.

Even for a (relative) fashion traditionalist, this is appealing. Do I rock bling bling neon? No. I am interested in slim, clean lines and gentleman's accessories. I like updated classics and small signals of rebellion. The high tops I purchased several years ago were a leap in aesthetics that I am still not entirely comfortable with.

That being said, two words: DESIGNER SWEATPANTS. They are like your sweetest dark denim Italian jeans but way more comfortable. You can dress them up, for God's sake. Who even knows why this works? Fashion alchemy.

Tons of men's lines experimented with this look last fall (there is a similar trend happening in women's fashion that I think, frankly, is a lot less successful) but if you are not up on this and/or not convinced, take one look at these beauties from those genius hipsters at Band of Outsiders:

TUXEDO SWEATPANTS LINED IN TERRYCLOTH. Yes, I'm yelling.

Oh, I'm sorry. Do you want your sweatpants to look magically like stonewashed 80's jeans? No problem! Thanks, Topman.

The store/label Ssense renamed their sweatpants "sweat trousers" which I think is both adorable and kind of gross sounding. Their update, awesomely, is like the sweat pant/trouser version of the tapered jean.

And good old Diesel! Despite their recent bizarre ad campaign, they have pulled off an impressive move with their Prigel "pant" (skinny sweatpants!)

What makes this work is the element of surprise. I think the Band of Outsiders approach is perfect: smart, fresh and edgy. They're expensive-looking, as they should be, and the effect is a kind of crazy camouflage mindfuck.

Sweatpants! Not just for slobs anymore.

Friends + Foes

At long last I have these Band of Outsiders x Sperry reconstructed penny loafers in my possession! They are actually from the Fall 2010 collection so I am behind the times, oh well. Feel free to invite me to your private estate(will travel) for some pool side fun. Oh, and I think these run a little big, hence the long last.

Last Saturday I attended a baby shower(yes, we're all required to go now, it's called equality) and was given a present to deliver to my friend Chad. It was these here Von Zipper swim trunks complete with an insulated fanny pack. He's ready to hike in for a swim.




Beth came from the heat of Brooklyn for a windy SF visit!




She wears a vintage bomber jacket, borrowed cardigan(they never believe how cold it will be here), and a Topman t-shirt. That small satchel she says is from "an awesome leather store in Telluride Colorado", it's by Overland which excitingly enough has a section called Hobo Leather Handbags on their website. Her plimsoll's are from UO and she pointed out that they are 2 for $30 even though she only has the 1 pair. Her fashion inspiration comes from "Looking in the mirror". Well, ok.

Then Wes came over for a gin and juice on the back deck.




I dig the tans/denims situation he's working. Jacket: stolen from his girlfriends online vintage shop which I would give you the name of if he would text me back with it. Sweater: vintage. Shirt: Zara. Jeans: Levis. Shoes: vintage Rockports. His fashion inspiration comes from: "Old timey shit and gay people not of this era. Oh, and a little Americana and sticking with earth tones."

And, off season, but, I want these boots.



They are the Thompson boots by Mr. Hare, named after Hunter S. Thompson himself. Mr. Hare's tag line is, "Shoes you can attach some romance to.". Ok.

And, off topic, but, I want these Prism glasses.



Foes = things I want.

Strangeways Styleguide: A How-To for the Invisible Man

Style Icon: JT--He gets it right with just a little (well aimed) flash

So anyone who knows me knows that I seem to always find myself flapping in the wind of unsettled space. My gender identity is so complicated for others that there doesn't seem to be a word for me (I'm transgender-identified in a pretty broad sense, if it matters--and I don't think my gender is complicated at all).

Point is: my body presents unique challenges when clothing shopping (I've had top surgery but not taken testosterone, so my shoulders are narrow, my chest is flat, I'm thin and I'm 5'5--so I can basically not buy anything off the rack at 99% of boutiques, department stores and monster chains).

I appreciate, then, that "men's" (high) fashion occupies the often bizarre crossover territory of the hypermasculine (performance!) and the androgynous (art!). If I was a flashy dresser with a strong jawline and a trustfund, I think my closet would be full of Alexander McQueen + Prada + etc. + so on. I'd be like: ruffled shirts and manly short shorts! Whatevs.

However, to further my style troubles, I tend toward the classic--maybe it's my Libra moon--but I like feeling rebellious while maintaining a gentleman's sense of containment and an eye for details. Like this guy:

I realize I might not be the only masculine body out there challenged by a desire for stylish staples compounded by strange proportions/gender obstacles/etc. So I've put together this short yet handy guide of places to shop if you and I fit the same style bill.

First off, by necessity I've adopted a very European model of buying clothing--I shell out a lot for a few well-made items that last a long time. I have a tailor (more on Al next time) who has handcrafted me a suit, a shirt and two vests. It may sound decadent, but the sweet thing about having a tailor is that you pick out every detail and every piece is made for your body. Bonus: alterations for life!

My grey suit is solid and can be mixed and matched with both vests and the shirt. As Al often reminds me, I'm slowly building up a collection of gentlemen's garments that will look as excellent at a formal wedding as a beach bluff picnic.

I augment the expense of my tailor with regular trips to American Apparel who--for all their tacky advertising--is the only place stateside I can find a plain white t-shirt that fits me (xs! xxs!) There summer line is almost always awesome--rife with seersucker and fancy pants. And it's affordable!

My favorite new shirt for cocktail parties or beer on the deck:

White/brown seersucker

If I've got a little extra cash and time, I'll visit Topman's online store. Their XS or XXS both tend to fit this small guy well and I've found multiple sweaters, t-shirts and jackets that have been off the chain. My favorite drool-worthy items on their site are the blazers and jackets, which sort of toe the line between rock and roll and elegant modernist dinner party.

I've heard great things about Uniqlo, though I haven't yet had the opportunity to try something on. Generally, if I could buy only Japanese clothes I would be pumped: they've got the slim fit/small guy/well dressed situation down in a major way.

Finally, for accessories the world opens up a little. A great spot that I've found for all your dandy materials is Fine and Dandy, an awesome online store overflowing with pocket squares and tie jewelry. They also have a great blog with very dapper fashion insights (though occasionally I find them a bit costume-y, I appreciate their eye for "men on the street" like this guy):

Between my tailor and the few stores I know make clothes in my size, I have managed to put together a closet I'm proud of. Someday: a store where pants always fit. I'll keep you posted.